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By Aubrey Buckingham (shanghai daily)
Updated: 2007-01-12 09:12

Most people in this city would be surprised to learn that there is a Greek restaurant on Wuxing Road. These people would be further baffled to learn that this eatery, the Shanghai Acropolis, has been running since 2000. In a city where one diner closes for every two that open, such longevity is impressive.

The key to this success is keeping things simple and having a clear focus. The Greek fare on offer is not exactly authentic; what you get at the Shanghai Acropolis is the style of Greek fare commonly found in restaurants around continental Europe. This is not necessarily a bad thing, according to proprietor Andy Baumgartner. "Real Greek food can be too heavy and oily sometimes."

The Vienna native has had a long affinity for this type of cuisine. "I grew up in the south of Germany and after basketball practice we would all head out to the local Greek restaurant until 3am," he recalled.

According to Baumgartner, the quaint little 40-seater restaurant is focused on being a romantic little place that young Chinese professionals can afford.

A strong emphasis is placed on attracting families to the establishment. "There is not much choice for family restaurants (in Shanghai)," the Austrian said. "Here we welcome them, and we're friendly. Unlike other places, our soft drinks are cheap (15 yuan/US$1.90). If your kids order five of them it doesn't cost so much."

"Also, this is a place to try European food before going abroad. People can practice table etiquette in a small, intimate environment."

The food here is not the best, but packs a great deal of charm. As one of two Greek restaurants in the city, the fare on offer is novel enough to keep customers returning.

"When Aegean (Sea, another Greek restaurant on Changle Road) opened, a number of our customers went to try the food there," said Baumgartner. "After eating there once or twice, they came back because the food is better here."

The bourekakia (mushroom fritters) cost 28 yuan (US$3.59) and made for an interesting appetizer, but the portions were a little on the small side. The baked fish cakes (38 yuan) were disappointing, however, and best forgotten.

All the usual Greek staples can be found here. The souvlaki (lamb kebabs; 98 yuan) were tasty enough but came from the kitchen a little cooler than preferred and the meat itself was a little on the dry side. The moussaka (baked eggplant and minced meat; 58 yuan) was the best in Shanghai, although admittedly, that is not saying very much. Much like baked lasagna, this main course could have been served in a deeper dish.

The platters are popular options for larger groups of diners. Priced between 95 and 128 yuan, these large servings of mixed items, such as calamari, kebabs and gyros (roasted meat), among others, were well-priced for the choice and size of portion. These were not massive either, so a couple could simply share one.

The dessert of komposta milo (stewed apples/25 yuan) was done just nicely, not too sweet yet stewed for just long enough without turning to mush.

The restaurant attracts a large number of the local Greek community with its availability of ouzo. This aniseed-flavored spirit is hard to come by locally, and patrons have been known to call up in advance to ensure there is a steady flow of the drop.

Shanghai Acropolis Restaurant plans to double in size at the end of the year, and bring a new focus on the dining experience. In the meantime, one can enjoy decent fare at decent prices which your grandmother might cook - if she was Greek, of course.

Address: 33 Wuxing Road
Tel: 021-6466-5608