Regional holiday rituals leave lasting memories
Mouth-watering offerings mark a festival where family reunions and taste buds take priority, Li Yingxue reports.
Whether it's Guangzhou's Poon Choi ("basin feast" containing up to 20 luxury ingredients served in a big wooden bowl or clay pot, originally served in a washbasin) or Northeast China's fried pork in a scoop, each dish tells a story of tradition, family and the universal longing for reunion and happiness.
Xiao Fang, professor and director of the department of anthropology and folklore at the School of Sociology, Beijing Normal University, notes that the culinary traditions of Spring Festival are an integral part of China's intangible cultural heritage.
"New Year foods are among the most eagerly anticipated parts of the holiday," he says. "These regional dishes reflect the wisdom, emotions and values of the people, showcasing the diversity of Chinese culture from north to south."
Chang Longshan, head chef of Zhiguan Courtyard, a Michelin-star restaurant in Beijing specializing in northeastern Chinese cuisine, hails from Benxi, Liaoning province.